Feb 13, 2013

How Surfing Feels: Darker Side of the Lens

"I see life in angles, in lines of perspective
The slight turn of the head, the blink of an eye.
Subtle glimpses of magic other folk might pass by."

I'm often asked how surfing feels.  I step back.  I think.  I think, and I'm not sure, so I say things like this: Amazing.  Surreal.  Magical.  I say it's a release, and that it fuels my being.  I do it to feel free.  I surf because nothing compares.  Effortlessly gliding across the ocean– smooth, speed, calm.  Surfing defies what your mind thinks is possible.  I say all that, but I can't convey what I feel.

Darker Side of the Lens does just that– it describes something I've been feeling for years. I show this film to both surfers and non to describe what I feel.  Surfers tend to get chills down their spine, and those who don't surf– well– now they finally get it.

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